Touring the Parsha

Touring the Parsha – Parah

This week’s Parsha is Vayakhel-Pekudei. In addition, we read a special Parsha this week, all about the Red Heifer, called Parshat Parah. The main Torah portions of this week mostly repeat stuff I have written about in previous posts. So I thought it would be interesting to do a tour in Jerusalem focused on the Red Heifer from the extra parsha of Parah. Let’s get started!

Red What?!

Red Heifer

A Red Heifer raised in Texas

Heifer is just a fancy word for a young, female cow. Numbers 19 describes in great detail how one can be  ritually purified after being defiled by contact with a dead body. They had to be sprinkled with special water mixed with ashes from a Red Heifer. The Red Heifer had to be completely red and without blemish. It was slaughtered and burned whole outside the complex of the Mishkan or Temple. Cedar wood, hyssop and scarlet were cast into the fire together with the burning cow.  When the whole thing was done burning, the ashes were gathered, and mixed with spring water and this was sprinkled on the person who desired to be purified.

There is an entire tractate of the Mishnah, Tractate Parah, dedicated to the details of the Red Heifer and its preparation. With these two texts in hand let’s start our tour!

Where was the Red Heifer Prepared?

What better place to visit on a tour of Parshat Parah, than the very place where the Red Heifer was prepared?!  But where was that? With a little searching in the Talmudic sources we might be able to figure it out!

The Parsha tells us that the Red Heifer was given over to the priest and then brought ‘outside the camp’ to be burnt. The Mishnah describes exactly how this was done in the Temple times:

A bridge was made from the Temple Mount to the Mount of Olives…whereby the priest who was to burn the cow, the cow itself and all those who aided in its preparation went forth to the Mount of Olives.

Burning the Red Heifer

Burning the Red Heifer on the Mt. of Olives

Once they got to the Mount of Olives there was a flat area which was hollow underneath. (The hollow area underneath served as a protective buffer to stop impurity from any graves which might be below the site.) The site also had a Mikvah allowing the priest to immerse before burning the cow.

A big pile of wood was prepared. The cow was tied to the pile and then slaughtered by the priest. The priest would slaughter with one hand, and collect the blood in a vessel with the other. Then he would would dip his finger in the blood seven times, each time flicking blood in the direction of the Temple. Then the whole thing was set on fire.

The Talmud tells us that the priest had to be able to see the opening of the Heichal when flicking the blood. The Mishnah in Tractate Middos tells us that the eastern wall of the Temple mount was built especially low so that the priest could see the Heichal when flicking the blood from the Mt. of Olives.

So if we know where the Heichal was located, we can do some simple calculations to figure out where on the Mt. of Olives the Red Heifer was prepared. If we look there and find a flat area which is hollow underneath, we have struck the jackpot.  Luckily for us a Rabbi named Yonatan Adler did these calculations about ten years ago and published his findings in the Torah journal Techumin.

He based his calculations on the most commonly held opinion that the Holy of Holies stood where the Dome of the Rock stands today. I will not go into all of the detailed mathematic calculations (those who read Hebrew can see the original article here) but he concluded that there was an area of not greater than 40 by 40 meters where one could stand on the Mt. of Olives and see the opening of the Heichal. So let’s go there and see what we can find!

The Dominus Flevit Church

Dominus Flevit Window

View of Dome of the Rock from inside the Dominus Flevit Church

Right smack in the middle of the 40 by 40 meter area calculated by Rabbi Adler stands a Catholic church built in the 1950′s called Dominus Flevit. (I don’t generally discuss Christian holy sites on this blog, but suffice it to say that the church commemorates the site where they believe Yeshu looked upon Jerusalem and wept.) The church is built on the ruins of a Byzantine church which stood in the same place. The courtyard of the church stands over a huge hollow area which at one time served as a cistern. This site not only works based on the mathematical calculations, but it is also a flat area with is hollowed out beneath, just as mentioned in the Talmud!

As a religious Jew, I do not enter churches, but from pictures taken inside the church, you can see the perfect, straight view of the Dome of the Rock across the valley. The courtyard of the church is open to the public. There are different opinions in Halacha regarding whether one may enter the courtyard of a church so consult with your Rabbi before you go.

The Shiloach Pool

The Mishnah also tells in great detail about how the spring water water was drawn to be mixed with the ashes. A special living compound was built in Jerusalem in a place that had no possibility of ritual impurity. Pregnant women were brought there to give birth and the children were raised in this compound in a state of purity so they would be ready for the day when the water was to be drawn.

These children would be transported on oxen to the Shiloach pool. They were seated on top of doors since a large flat vessel like a door creates a barrier for any impurity they may pass over on the way. When they got to the Shiloach pool, they would fill special stone vessels with the spring water and then they would be transported to the Temple Mount where the mixing would take place.

Pool of Shiloach in City of David Israel

The excavated Shiloach Pool in the City of David

Today we know exactly where the Shiloach pool is located. It is at the bottom of the City of David national park. It was discovered a few years ago when construction workers were moving a large drainage pipe and struck some stones underneath. The archaeologist who was supervising the work in this sensitive area understood that there was something that needed to be checked out. When they dug they found the Shiloach pool! The same pool that was built by King Hezekiah in preparation for the Assyrian siege and was later used by visitors to the Temple in the Second Temple period.

I hope you can see how touring Israel can really bring the Torah to life! Come with me on your next tour of Israel and you will be able to see these sites and so much more!

Categories: Jerusalem, Torah Tours, Touring the Parsha | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Touring the Parsha – Tetzaveh

Last week I started a new series of blog posts that I call ‘Touring the Parsha’.

Ancient Olive Tree Israel

An ancient olive tree on Hebron Road in Jerusalem

This week’s Parsha, Tetzaveh, starts with a description of the pure olive oil that must be used in the Temple Menorah. Olives and olive oil have always been an extremely important staple all over the Mediterranean. When driving around Israel you can see olive groves in many parts of the country including the Galilee and the Judea and Samaria mountain range.

There are many sites in Israel where you can find installations for producing oil from olives, some are original archaeological finds and some are recreations.

How was olive oil made in ancient times?

In modern factories, olive oil is produced in two stages. First the olives are ground  in a machine to extract the juice. Next the juice is placed in a centrifuge to separate the oil from the other liquid.

Olive press Neot Kedumim

The mill for crushing the olives

In ancient times it really wasn’t that different. The olives were first crushed in a kind of mill. The mill consisted of round basin carved from a single huge stone. This basin is called a Yam (Sea) in the Talmud. There was an axle in the center of the basin and a big rolling stone was rolled around in circles by means of a pole driven by animals. In this way all of the olives would be crushed.

Bet Bad Pole

The 'bad' or pole and weights used to squeeze the olives. (Tel Hazor)

The crushed olives would then be placed in soft, woven baskets. The baskets would be stacked and place in the next installation called the ‘Bad’ (Hebrew for pole). In this installation more and more weight would be placed on the baskets of crushed olives until all the juice was extracted.

There was a long, heavy pole one side of which was inserted into a niche in the wall. The baskets were stacked under the pole near the wall so that maximum leverage could be applied. Then weights were added on the far side of the pole to squeeze out every bit of the juice from the olives.

How oil was made for the Menorah

Now we can understand how the oil was made for the Menorah. This week’s Parsha says the oil must be squeezed (‘Katit’ in Hebrew). When preparing oil for the menorah, they would not do the first process of grinding the olives in the mill. Choice, whole olives would be placed directly in the baskets and then pressed. Only enough weight would be added to get out the first bit of juice from the olives. This is the oil that would be set aside for the Menorah in the Temple.

Now for a few places where we can see this in action:

Neot Kedumim

Neot Kedumim

Cooking old-school at Neot Kedumim

My favorite place to see an olive press is Neot Kedumim. It is a ‘Biblical Landscape Reserve’. Its 620 acres near Modiin (between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv) recreate the scenery of the area as it would have been in Biblical times. In order to do this, ancient terraces have been rebuilt, thousands of truckloads of soil have been brought in to the eroded hills and native plants which had disappeared from the area have been reintroduced.

At Neot Kedumim they have reproduced many of the agricultural installations which were common in Biblical times such as threshing floors, wine presses and yes, an olive press! During the harvest season (around Tishrei) you can see demonstrations of olive oil production.

Other places:

There are so many other places where we can see examples of these installations in Israel. Here’s a partial list:

Tel Hazor

Susia (BTW you can also see a Menorah with diagonal branches like the opinion of the Rambam, carved on the lintel of one of the homes there.)

Maresha

Gamla

The rest of Parshat Tetzavah

High Priest's Garments

Model of the Cohen Gadol wearing the special garments at the Temple Institute.

The rest of the Parsha speaks mostly about the special garments worn by the priests in the Temple. The best place to go in Israel to gain an understanding of these garments is the Temple Institute which I wrote about in last week’s Parsha  Tour. 

This week the Temple Institute is holding a special certification course for religious Jewish tour guides. They are going to be certifying a handful of tour guides to guide groups in their exhibition. I am very excited that I was accepted to this course. I will report on it here later this week (G-d willing).

Since the Parsha speaks about the Hoshen-Breastplate worn by the High Priest, I wanted to write about sites where the Hoshen was used to make decisions, such as Beit El. But I am afraid I am out of time for this weeks post. Come with me on a tour of the Parsha, and you will see all of these sites and many more!

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Touring the Parsha – Terumah

One of the great things about touring Israel is that when you study Torah you have a completely different understanding of so many things. It is almost impossible for me to read anything from the Tanakh (Bible) without picturing the area or sometimes even the exact place where it happened.

With that in mind, I would like to begin a regular feature on this blog which I will call “Touring the Parsha”. My idea is to choose a site or list of sites that can help us to understand the weekly Torah portion or Haftara better. I am sure that I won’t have time to get around to it every week, but I will try to post as frequently as time allows.

Parshat Terumah is all about the Mishkan (Tabernacle) and its vessels. There are so many sites in Israel that we can visit to bring this theme to life…

Tel Shiloh

When we think of the Mishkan, we should immediately think of Shiloh. Shiloh is where the Mishkan stood for 369 years. Remember the story of Chana going to pray in the Mishkan and Eli the priest rebuking her? That happened in Shiloh!

Tel Shiloh - site of the Tabernacle

Site of the Mishkan - Tel Shiloh

Today we can go to the site of the Mishkan in Tel Shiloh, just outside the modern Jewish village of Shiloh in the Shomron (Samaria) region. In a tour of Tel Shiloh you will see the ruins of the ancient Israelite city of Shiloh. You will also see the site, just outside the city where the Mishkan is thought to have stood. It is a rectangular area, carved out in the bedrock which closely matches the dimensions of the Mishkan which are spelled out in this week’s Parsha.

Shiloh Synagogue

Synagogue of Shiloh

Besides the archaeological site there is an audio/video presentation, a restaurant and a nice gift shop specializing in items related to the Mishkan. Another nice thing to see at Shiloh is the modern synagogue built to look like the Mishkan. A visit to Shiloh cast so much light on many familiar stories from the Tanakh and should not be missed.

Tel Beit Shemesh

Tel Beit Shemesh

The ancient tel with the modern Beit Shemesh behind it.

Beit Shemesh is a city that should also come to mind when we think of the Aron HaBrit (Ark of the Covenant) from Parshat Terumah. Chapter 6 of the Book of Samuel tells how the Philistines were cursed by the Ark they had captured. They decided to send it back on a cart drawn by two oxen. The oxen eventually arrived at the city of Beit Shemesh.

Standing on top of the ancient Tel, looking down on the valley below, you can easily picture the scene unfolding before your eyes. You can also see remnants of houses built by our ancestors shortly after entering the Land of Israel.

The Tanakh tells us that ultimately the people of Beit Shemesh did not treat the Ark with a high enough level of respect and they were forced to send it out of their city. This brings us to our next site…

Abu Ghoush

The modern name of this town is taken from the clan who lived here during the Ottoman period and made their living from collecting a toll from all who traveled the road to Jerusalem. Abu Ghoush is currently known as the Hummus capital of Israel. But none of this has anything to do with the Parsha.

Abu Ghoush is the site of the Israelite town of Kiryat Yearim. That is where the Ark of the Covenant was taken when the people of Beit Shemesh decided it was too much for them to handle. Taking a short drive from Beit Shemesh to Abu Ghoush, you can picture the Ark being brought more or less along the same route we travel today!

The Temple Institute

Temple Menorah

Menorah made by the Temple Institute

No tour of Parshat Terumah would be complete without a visit to the Temple Institute located in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem. At the Temple Institute you can see recreations of the many of the Temple vessels mentioned in Parshat Terumah. These include the Menorah (in a glass case as you ascend the steps from the Kotel to the Jewish Quarter), the Shulchan (Table for the show bread), and the Ark. They also have all of the different garments worn by the Kohanim in the Temple, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves, that is for Parshat Tetzaveh!

Park Timna

This one is in a category all unto itself. All of the other sites I have mentioned are within a relatively short drive from Jerusalem. Park Timna, on the other hand, is all the way in the south of Israel, just a short drive from Eilat. You may wonder what a nature reserve in the south of the country has to do with the Parsha?

Timnah Mishkan

The model Mishkan at Timna Park

Don’t forget that the Mishkan was originally made to be portable so the Children of Israel could erect it and disassemble it as needed to travel through the desert. Because of this, a Christian group has erected a life-sized model of the Mishkan inside Park Timna. Of course, they have not done every detail according to the Rabbinic sources, but on the whole it is a very impressive model that allows you to get a feeling of the scale and look of the Mishkan as it stood in the desert.

These are a few of the sites that you can easily visit in Israel to bring Parshat Terumah to life. It is Monday night here in Israel, so there is still time to get on a plane and come with us on a tour of the Parsha before this Shabbat. Hope to see you there!

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