Old City Jerusalem Tour

On our first day together we did a tour of the Old City of Jerusalem. We visited the ruin of the ‘broad wall’ built by Hezekiah. We learned about how the Jewish Quarter actually sits on the original expansion of Jerusalem done by King Hezekiah in preparation for an Assyrian siege.

The Temple Institute

Next we did a tour in the Temple Institute’s new exhibition. They have recently moved their visitor’s center adjacent to the Moriah bookshop in the Old City. The new exhibition is much roomier and nicer. We got to see the vessels that they have created for use in the Third Temple and learn about the history of the Temple and the Mishkan.

The Wohl Museum

One of my favorite sites to take people in the Old City are the underground excavations of the mansions of Kohanim from the Second Temple. You can really understand how they lived their lives in those days. It gives you a peek into the division of society that existed when the Temple was destroyed.

We had a lunch break in the Jewish Quarter center where there are  many restaurants to choose from.

The Kotel

We finished our short tour of the Old City with a visit to the Kotel. We learned about why the Kotel is so important and took some time to pray there and put notes in the wall.

Tekoa Dalet

Checking out the view in Tekoa

One of the things that the Husmanns wanted to do on their tour in Israel was to visit an “outpost settelment”. They constantly hear all of the propaganda about the settlements in the news in Europe. They were very eager to visit such a hilltop settlement and see the truth with their own eyes.  I took them to Tekoa Dalet, a hilltop outpost with stunning views of the Judean Desert that is an extension of Tekoa.

We spent an hour with Shira and Shimon Palmer who very graciously hosted us and told us about their life in this unique place. You may have heard about Shimon’s brother Asher and nephew Yonatan who were killed by an Arab who threw rocks at their vehicle. The Palmers told us about their struggle dealing with this tragedy and their hopes for a better future.

Biblical Sites in the Shefela

On the second day we headed to the Beit Shemesh area for a tour of Biblical sites in the Shefela. Here is what we did:

David and Goliath – Tel Azeka

On top of Tel Azeka

We started out by ascending Tel Azeka, the site of the Biblical city of Azekah. According to the Tanach, the battle of David and Goliath took place between Azeka and Socho. From the top of the hill you can see the Elah Valley where the battle took place. We spent some time reading the story from the Tanach and pointing out all of the places mentioned in the story like the site of Socho and the stream that David took the 5 smooth stones from.

Afterward we walked around the Tel a bit to see the archaeological excavations that are ongoing at the site.  We saw a carob tree there and tasted the hard, but sweet pods that grow on it. We learned about the importance of this tree in Jewish history.

We stopped for a picnic lunch in British forest where there were playgrounds for the kids.

Playing at British Park

Samson’s Home Town – Tel Tzorah

Samson’s playground – Tel Tzorah

Next we headed over to Tel Tzorah site of the city that was home to Samson. We saw remnants of the Jewish village that stood there in the time of the Judges. From there you can look down to the coast and see many of the places mentioned in the Samson story in the Bible such as Tel Batash – thought to be Biblical Timna where Samson met his first Philistine wife and Gaza where he died bringing down the Temple of Dagon on the Philistines. The kids got to crawl in caves and run around the Tel.

Where the Ark was returned from the Philistines – Tel Beit Shemesh

View of Tel Beit Shemesh from below

Finally we visited Tel Beit Shemesh. Beit Shemesh is mentioned dozens of times in the Tanach. The most famous story is how the Ark was returned from the Philistines after having been captured by them. We saw the fields where the people were busy with the harvest when the saw the Ark being returned.

We walked through the area that was the cemetery of the people of Beit Shemesh. There you see ancient burial tombs which were used by the Jews 3,000 years ago.

Next we climbed up to the Tel to see the ruins of the Israelite homes. The highlight is the gigantic water cistern that was one of the main sources of the water for the people of Beit Shemesh. We climbed in with our flashlights to see the cistern and cool off from the heat.

Entering the 3,000 year old cistern.

A tour in the Shomron

Day three was in the Shomron. I think this was the most fun day of the three for the kids. Here’s what we did:

Nachal Prat – Wadi Kelt

30 Minutes from Jerusalem, in the middle of the Judean Desert, there is an amazing oasis of running water called Wadi Kelt or Nachal Prat in Hebrew. We drove through the barren landscape of the desert on the Alon Road till we came to the parking area. We hiked down to the bottom of the ravine where we reached the Mabua spring, one of the sources of the water that runs in the Nachal Prat year round.

Swimming in the Nachal Prat

Fun in this desert oasis

Playing in the water.

The fresh water is great for the kids to play in. The wildlife also loves it! We saw frogs, lizards, butterflies, many types of birds and fish as well as many different types of plants and wildflowers. We saw an Eshel or Tamerisk tree. This tree is amazing because it can live in salty areas. It survives by excreting the salt out its foliage. We broke off a small piece and could taste the salt crystals on its leaves! There was also a mulberry tree there with ripe berries that we ate. It is amazing to see how much life can exist in the middle of the desert if  you just add a bit of water!

A caper bush flowering in the desert.

Desert wildflowers

Happy frog

After the kids played in the water for an hour or so we did a short hike for half an hour along the bank of the stream. We came across wild mustard and broke off the flowers to taste the mustardy taste.

Lunch at Shifon Bakery

Goats on the way

After hiking back up to the car in the heat, we were pretty worn out so we headed over the the Shaar Binyamin Shopping center where we had our lunch stop. There they have a large supermarket as well as a pizza place and burger place. But the highlight is the Shifon Bakery. People come from all around for their excellent baked goods which include artisan breads, pastries of all kinds, pizzas, cookies and much more. They also make good coffee and offer other lunch options like Shakshuka, falafel and more.

Beit El – Where Israel was promised to Abraham

After lunch we visited the town of Beit El. We ascended to the top of a water tower that is a great lookout point. Beit El is where G-d promised Abraham that he would inherit all of the land that he could see. While standing at this lookout point you can better understand what G-d was promising. You can see till Jerusalem in the south. To Jordan in the East. To the Hermon mountain in the North and to the coast in the west!

In Beit El we also saw several interesting trees that they don’t have in the Netherlands like pomegranate, apricot, olive and date palms.

Shiloh – Site of Hannah’s prayer

Next we visited ancient Shiloh. The Mishkan was stationed in Shiloh for 369 years making this the center of Jewish worship at the time. We hiked around the site till we got to the place where we think the Mishkan used to rest. There is a large rectangular spot carved out of the bedrock that fits the dimensions of the Tabernacle as explained in the Torah.

Posing as Israelites at Shiloh

Hiking at Tel Shiloh

Playing on the ‘Altar’ at Ancient Shiloh

We spoke about the history of this site including how Hannah came here to pray for a son. G-d blessed her with a baby named Samuel who became the prophet who brought Israel from the time of the Judges to the period of the Kings. The Husmanns took a few moments to say a personal prayer at this site.

A moment for private prayer

Next we climbed up to the Tel where the city of Shiloh stood. We could see ruins of the homes from Biblical times. We climbed up to the newly completed lookout tower to get an overview of the site.

By this time the kids were getting pretty tired so we started to head back home. On the way we stopped off at my home where I showed my guests how the Torah is written and we made a pen from a reed we collected at the Nahal Prat. I was very happy that my kids got an opportunity to play with theirs and meet people from a different country.

Shaffier and Husmann kids having fun at my place.

An awesome three days!

It’s never easy to tour with 3 small children. As a father of 7 I understand the challenges in doing a tour like this with kids. We made sure to take it slow even if we had to drop a few sites from our itinerary to make them comfortable. We took time to let them play and explore at each site we visited. And of course frequent stops for bathrooms, and ice creams are a must! But even with the challenges involved we managed to experience many sites that I think the kids will remember for the rest of their lives.

If you are coming to Israel and are interested in a tour like this, please contact me so we can create exactly the tour for you.

For those visiting Israel this winter, who want to see this awesome exhibition, there is good news. The Israel Museum just sent out a press release announcing that they have extended the Herod exhibition till January of 2014!

Here is a link to a PDF of the official release

Thanks to my friend Howie Osterer who shared this doc.

For a thorough review of the exhibition check out this article from my friend Fun Joel 

Here is a gallery of pics from the day:

We decided to do a nature/history hike through the heart of Jerusalem. I thought I would share our day with you. Here’s what we did:

Givat HaTanach

We took a bus from our home in Beitar Illit to the Old Train Station in Jerusalem. Just next to the bus stop there is a little oasis, right in the center of the city called Givat HaTanach, or Bible Hill.You climb up to the top of the hill and come to a big open area covered with indigenous vegetation and littered with ruined buildings.

Picnic at Givat HaTanach

This place is called Bible Hill because it is a part of the ancient ‘spine route’ which lead from Be’er Sheva in the south, to the Gilboa Mountain in the north. This is one of the narrowest parts of this ancient route. This means that when you stand here, you can be sure that everyone in the Bible who traveled from north to south walked in this place!

Very few people visit this beautiful island of serenity in the middle of the city. In fact, even though it was Chol Hamoed, we had the place all to our selves. We had a nice picnic lunch to give us strength for the long hike ahead. And of course the kids had fun climbing on the ruins.

Ruins at Givat Hatanach

Ben Hinnom Valley

After lunch, we headed down the other side of the hill and descended to the Ben Hinnom Valley. This is a valley that runs from just below the Old City and winds around to meet the Kidron Valley at the southern tip of Ir David.

Jeremiah tells us that Jews used to sacrifice their children to Molech in this valley. It was also a place where garbage from the city was dumped. Because of these unsavory associations, the Jewish word for Hell, Gehinnom, is taken from this valley which is called Gei ben Hinnom in Hebrew.  Today the valley is a beautiful national park. A place for everyone to enjoy. I wonder of its namesake has benefited from the same fate?

Ben Hinnom Valley

Devorah Leah watching her siblings climb

Climbing cliffs in the Ben Hinnom Valley

Michal and Yosef Yitzchack (AKA Fitche)

We hiked through the valley until it meets up with the Kidron Valley at the south of Ir David.

Horse on the slope of the Kidron Valley

Kidron Valley

As you hike north in the Kidron Valley, Ir David, the original site of Jerusalem, is on your left and the Arab village of Silwan is on your right. You can see the Arab homes built upon the ancient Jewish burial tombs from the First Temple period.

Goats in the Kidron Valley below the graves.

Kever Zeharia

As you continue north, the cemetery transitions from the First Temple to the Second Temple period. You pass some of the famous monumental burial tombs of Second Temple Jerusalem such as Yad Avshalom, and Kever Zeharia.

We stopped to climb and enter Kever Zeharia. Inside you can see the original burial tombs. There are, of course, no bones left in these tombs since the have been raided by grave robbers over the millenia.

Fitche at Kever Zeharia

Southeaster corner of the Temple Mount seen from Kever Zeharia

View down the Kidron from Kever Zeharia

Inside the tombs

Exploring the Tombs

People lit candles in honor of the holy site

Mt. of Olives

View from Mt. of Olives

We continued north in the Kidron Valley till we had to ascend part way up the Mountain. We ascended via a very beautiful garden that was planted by Mormons from America. From here, you have a panoramic view of all of Jerusalem. At this point my smallest daughter Devorah Leah, needed a bit of help from her Tatty.

Devorah Leah gets help up the Mt. of Olives

We made it!

Emek Tzurim Sifting Project

Once we got to the top of the garden, we exited and made our way over to the Emek Tzurim Sifting project.

About 13 years ago, the Moslem authorities began a project of expanding the Al Aksa Mosque which sits on the Temple Mount. In order to do this, they illegally brought bulldozers and tractors up to the Temple Mount to dig and move earth. They dumped the earth in the Kidron Valley.  The Temple Mount is one of the most sensitive archaeological sites on Earth! So besides the spiritual desecration, this was seen as an archaeological crime of mass proportions.

The Emek Tzurim Sifting Project was set up to take all of this earth and make sure that it was sifted through for finds. Since it has been set up several years ago, they have found many impressive finds such as coins from the Temple, paving stones from the Second Temple and much more.

Explaining the project

Freida sifting

A staff member explaining something the kids found.

Devorah Leah sifting

Our friend Tooli from Tekoa now works here!

The sifting is done by volunteers who come for a one hour session which includes a short explanation, training and then the actual sifting. This gives people and excellent opportunity to get a hands on feel for one aspect of archaeology. I think my son Mendel wants to be an archaeologist now!

As we finished up the sun was setting and we took a pair of cabs back to the bus station where we caught our bus back to Beitar Illit in time for dinner at home.

For me, this was a really excellent day. We did the entire day on foot in the city and yet we barely saw a car all day! This is not the kind of tour I get to do often with tourists so I was very happy to be able to do it with my family on Pesach.

Drive North on the Jordan Valley Road

Camel riding near the Dead Sea

We headed out from Jerusalem at 8 am sharp! We wanted to take the Jordan Valley road north in order to avoid any traffic on the way up. From Jerusalem, you travel down towards the Dead Sea before you head north. So we made a quick stop at the Sea Level Marker, where some of my guests got to take their picture on a camel!

As we continued down we could see Jericho on our left. I told them the story of Jewish People sending spies into Jericho before the crossed the Jordan River to enter the Land. It was especially nice since we were touring in the month of Nisan, the same month when this happened!

After Jericho, we headed north and passed Kaser al Yehud, the traditional site where the Jordan River split for the Jews to cross.

When we got to Beit Shean, we made a quick pit stop at the Kosher Mehadrin CafeCafe restaurant. We had put in an order ahead of time for our lunch. They had it all packed up and waiting for us so we could take it with us to eat in the Golan.

Talmudic Village Katzrin

Our first stop in the Golan was at the Talmudic Village in Katzrin.
This is an original Jewish Village from the time of the Mishnah! What makes it even more unique is that when the archaeologists were finished excavating it, they reconstructed several of the homes using the original stones. They also furnished the homes with dishes, tools and furniture that replicates what Jews used in the time of the Mishnah. We entered the homes and I demonstrated how the these things were used in everyday life.

In the center of the village is a monumental synagogue. We discussed how synagogues retain their holiness even when they are destroyed. I also showed them different artist renditions of what the synagogue would have looked like when it was standing.

We had our bagged lunch at the picnic tables outside the park. The weather was perfect!

Golan Heights Visitor’s Center

After lunch we headed over to the Golan Heights visitor’s center. We enjoyed a 180 degree multi-media presentation about the sites and sounds of the Golan. Also they have a gigantic topographical map that illustrates the history of the different wars over the Golan Heights.

Banias River

The Banias River

One of the most beautiful places in the Golan Heights is the suspended trail over the Banias River. The Banias River is one of the three sources of the Jordan River (the others are the Chatzbani and the Dan). The river issues from a cave in the north of Israel. As it cuts through the hard black basalt stones of the Golan it creates a beautiful scenery. The suspended trail is a short hike (30-60) that lets you see some of the most striking parts of the river.

Waterfall at the Banias suspended trail.

We were very lucky to be visiting in the spring when the wildflowers are in full bloom. We saw many purple cyclamens, red anemones, and yellow mustard flowers among many others. The entire area was painted in many colors!

Wildflowers in the Golan

Dinner and walking tour in Tiberias

We ended the day in Tiberias. We started out our tour there with a visit to the Tomb of Maimonides (The Rambam), perhaps the greatest figure in the last 2,000 years of Jewish history! He is buried right next to other greats from our history like the Shloh Hakadosh and Rabban Yochanan ben Zakkai.

Tomb of Rambam Tiberias

We had dinner at a restaurant in the downtown promenade near the lake, followed by a short walking tour of the Old City of Tiberias. After our walking tour we headed back to Jerusalem and were back at the King David Hotel by 10:30.

All in all it was a really great day. I always encourage my clients to give at least two days for a visit to the Golan Heights since there is so much driving to get there. But this tour was a great example of what you can do even if you only have one day!

I would love to take you on a tour in the Golan Heights as well! Contact me for more details.

View from Herodion towards the Dead Sea

Yesterday I had the pleasure of guiding the Huebner family from Pittsburgh. We started the day with a hike the Nahal Tekoa to the Haritun Cave. Next we did a tour of Herodion. We then headed to Jerusalem for Falafel followed by a visit to Kever Rachel. We ended the day on top of the Mt. of Olives for a spectacular view of the Jerusalem at sunset.

The weather was great for touring as well as for photography. I got a lot of really great shots that you can see on my Instagram page.

This shot is from atop Herodion, a mountain-top palace built by King Herod in the desert near Tekoa. The visibility was great and we were able to see across  the entire Judean Desert until the Dead Sea as well as the mountains of Ammon in the distance!

Over the last few days I have had the pleasure of leading three different tours in Jerusalem. In between guiding, I was able to snap some really great shots with my cell phone cam. I have been uploading them to my Instagram page. If you wanna see what I’ve been up to you can check it out here:

Instagram.com/TourGuideAaron

Jerusalem, better luck tomorrow!

But if you want some pics of real snow in Jerusalem… Check out these from the blizzard in 1929!

Here’s what we did:

Beit El

Showing the parts of the Land we can see from Beit El

After meeting them in Jerusalem, we headed off to Beit El. Beit El is the site of so many stories in the Bible! It is where Abraham first lived when he came to the promised land. It is where Jacob had his dream of the ladder with the angels ascending and descending.  On a very different note, it is where Jeroboam built one of his two Temples with golden calfs after the 10 tribes broke away from Judah and anointed their own king.

After a short drive around to see the modern settlement, we ascended to the top of a water tower in the highest part of Beit El where we could see about half of Israel! We could see all the way to the Mediterranean sea in the west and to the mountains of Amon (the Kingdom of Jordan) in the east. To the south we could see Jerusalem and to the North far up into the Shomron.

We read about how Abraham stood in this area and G-d told him to look in all directions because Abraham would receive all of the land that he could see. Standing in this place really brought the story to life!

At the viewpoint in Beit El

View from Beit El

Shiloh

Selwyns at Tel Shiloh

Next we headed north to Tel Shiloh. This is the site of the Biblical city of Shiloh where the Mishkan (Tabernacle) stood for 369 years before Solomon built the permanent Temple in Jerusalem.

We toured the archaeological site of the ancient city. Just outside the city there is a large, flat rectangular area cut out of the bedrock where many scholars believe the Mishkan was set up during its time in Shiloh.

Standing at that site, we read from the Bible about Elkana and his wife Chana. We read how she visited the Mishkan in Shiloh to pray for a son and how Eli the High Priest thought she was drunk. When he realized that she was quietly pouring out her heart to G-d, he blessed her with a son. She promised that if she had a son she would dedicate him to serve in the Mishkan.

She indeed had a son named Shmuel (Samuel) who grew to be a prophet and the leader of all Israel. He helped the nation transition from the period of the Judges to the Monarchy of Saul.

On the way out we saw the area where the archaeologists are doing new work and we could see all of the pottery being sorted according to periods!

Model of the Altar at Tel Shiloh

Strolling around the Tel

At the site of where the Mishkan stood!

Ancient olive press – Tel Shiloh

Sorted pottery at Tel Shiloh

Mt. Gerizim

With the Samaritans on Mt. Gerizim

After lunch at Shilo, we headed off to Mt. Gerizim. This is one of the twin mountains around the city of Shechem. The other is Mt. Eival.

When the Israelites entered the Land, they were commanded to place 6 tribes on each mountain. The tribes on Mt. Gerizim pronounced blessings to whoever would keep the commandments of the Torah. The 6 tribes on Mt. Eival pronounced curses for those who would transgress the Torah.

Mt. Gerizim is the home of an ancient sect called the Samaritans. The Bible tells how after exiling the 10 tribes, the king of Assyria brought people from Cuta to settle the now empty land of the Shomron. Lions began to attack the new settlers and they complained to the king. He asked the Israelites if they knew anything about this. The Israelite leaders told him that the land would not tolerate people who didn’t keep the Torah. So the king of Assyria ordered Kohanim to go to the Cutim in Shomron and teach them how to be Jewish. Once they did this the lions left them alone. These people became known as the Samaritans.

Over the millenia, there was a lot of conflict between the Samaritans and the Jews. But in recent history, they were saved from extinction by the founding of the State of Israel after their numbers had dwindled to only a few dozen people.

We visited the Samaritan Museum on Mt. Gerizim where we were treated to a talk and presentation by one of their ‘Kohanim’ named Yefet. He taught us about their unique customs and way of life.

A Samaritan ‘Mezuzah’ carved in stone above the door.

Samaritan Torah Scroll

‘Kohen Yefet’ telling us about the Samaritans

Itamar

Next we visited the Jewish village of Itamar. We visited a unique ranch in the wilderness outside the village. We got to see a lot of animals including goats, sheep, a camel, horses, donkeys, chickens, Turkeys and more. More importantly got to meet these unique Jews who risk their lives to settle the Land that was promised to us by G-d.

At the ranch in Itamar

Chicken coop in Itamar

Checking out the Camel at the Ranch in Itamar

Elon Moreh

We ended our short winter day in Elon Moreh. Elon Moreh is a Jewish village that overlooks the city of Shechem which is unfortunately not accessible to Jews since it is in the Palestinian controlled area.

Here we spoke about Joseph going to seek his brothers in Shechem and ultimately being sold into slavery. We spoke about Shimon and Levi, the two sons of Jacob who killed the entire population of Shechem for raping their sister Dina. We also spoke about the grave of Joseph, Kever Yosef, where the Israelites brought his bones when they left Egypt.

From this spot we were able to point out the site of the altar built by Joshua when the Israelites entered Israel. It was discovered in modern times by the archaeologist Adam Zertal.

We davened Mincha as we watched the sun set over Shechem. As you can see in the picture, it was spectacular!

Sunset over Shechem

A great tour of the Shomron

What a great day this was! In one day we visited so many sites that are mentioned in the Bible. The Selwyn children have all learned about these sites in their Jewish day school in Brooklyn, but I guarantee that they will feel a completely different connection to these Biblical stories now that they have stood in the same places where our Patriarchs stood!

Here is what Yisroel Selwyn wrote me after the tour:

Dear Aaron,

Thank you for spending the day with us and showing us the secrets of the Shomron. We loved the way you kept on pulling out your Tanach and quoting the verses that described the path of the Patriarchs and Matriarchs that we were actually travelling all these years later. The stops in Bet-El and shiloh really brought this feeling home. We loved the farm in Itamar where the modern day warriors of Israel reside. To round off the day watching the sunset over shechem, nestled between Har Gerizim and Har Eival was the ultimate bonus. Thank you and hopefully we will be back today with Moshiach!

Yisroel Selwyn and family

If you would like to go on a tour of the Shomron or any other part of Israel with a guide who will bring the stories of the Tanach and Jewish history alive for you and your children, please contact me to set up a tour!